''I know i want 22'' and broad fit, so whats this extra decision"? Standard hat block crowns from Blocks by Design come at 6'' (150mm) high*. You may need yours to be 5'' for example, depending on how you plan to make the hat.
Some Milliners prefer to make the brim and crown parts of the hats separatly and stitch them together, while others prefer to block all in one, that is, on brim and crown at the same time. Of course, a 6'' high hat block can make a short crown but it's a bit harder to make a shorter crown make a taller hat.
Perhaps i can illustrate this with pictures and diagrams.
First up a picture of a 6'' high fedora crown sitting on a 'flat' brim*:
Now for some diagrams to illustrate it further: First up is a diagram of blocking in one peice on what i call a flat hat block brim:
Followed by a diagram of 'one peice blocking' of a hat block crown pushed through the hole in a donut or 'flange' brim:
When looking at a crown and flange brim from the top you will note the thickness of the hat fabric has to be taken into account... If the crown is 22'' then the flange hole will be 22'' PLUS clearance.
Again, this can be seen by looking at the picture below* of a mini top hat crown in a flange or donut brim. You can see the gap between the crown and the brim. I usually make the gap between 2 and 3mm, but it can be requested to be more, or less.
The aim of this post has been to help visualize how some make hats and in particular to help you work out, one, if this is the method you wish to use, and two, if so, to work out the height of the crown block when you purchase one.
*All photo's of hat blocks are of 'Blocks by Design' hat blocks
Darryll
